Canadian Rockies Adventure: Banff and Jasper in Post-COVID Solitude

Our August 2021 journey through Banff and Jasper National Parks came at a unique moment in travel history - just days after Canada reopened its borders following COVID restrictions. This timing created an almost private experience of some of North America's most spectacular mountain scenery, though wildfire smoke during the second half reminded us that even pristine wilderness faces environmental challenges.

General Comments

Post-COVID Timing: Visiting just after Canada's border reopening meant we experienced these world-famous parks with minimal crowds. Popular hiking trails, scenic viewpoints, and even the iconic Fairmont hotels felt nearly private. This solitude enhanced our connection with the pristine wilderness that makes the Canadian Rockies legendary.

Wildfire Reality: During our second half in Jasper, smoke from British Columbia wildfires created hazy conditions that obscured mountain views and affected air quality. While disappointing for photography, this reminded us that climate change impacts even the world's most protected wilderness areas.

Icefields Parkway Excellence: The drive between Banff and Jasper on Highway 93 North ranks among the world's most spectacular mountain roads. Glaciers, waterfalls, alpine lakes, and wildlife sightings made the 3.5-hour journey a destination itself rather than mere transportation.

Fairmont Luxury: Both Fairmont properties - the castle-like Banff Springs and the rustic-elegant Jasper Park Lodge - provided world-class luxury perfectly integrated with their mountain settings. These historic hotels enhanced rather than competed with the natural surroundings.

Hiking Paradise: Both parks offered hiking for all skill levels, from short lakeside strolls to challenging alpine adventures. The trail systems, maintained facilities, and clear signage demonstrated Canadian park service excellence.

Wildlife Encounters: Despite reduced visitor numbers, we experienced incredible wildlife sightings - mountain goats, elk, bighorn sheep, and black bears. The animals seemed more relaxed with fewer tourists, creating better viewing opportunities.

COVID Protocols: Required rapid COVID testing before departure and various health protocols reminded us we were traveling during unusual times, but Canadian efficiency made compliance straightforward.

Itinerary

Days 1-4: Banff National Park

After our Calgary arrival and airport hotel night, the 1.5-hour drive through foothills toward the Rocky Mountains built anticipation perfectly.

Hotel: Fairmont Banff Springs - This "Castle in the Rockies," built in 1888, provided the ultimate Canadian mountain luxury experience. The castle-like architecture, multiple restaurants, spa facilities, and golf course created a self-contained resort while remaining perfectly integrated with the dramatic mountain setting.

Lake Louise: Canada's most photographed lake lived up to its reputation despite our early visit beating typical crowds. The turquoise glacial water surrounded by snow-capped peaks created postcard-perfect scenery. The short walk around the lake provided constantly changing mountain perspectives, while the longer hike to the Lake Agnes Tea House offered elevated views worth the effort.

Moraine Lake: Often considered even more spectacular than Lake Louise, Moraine Lake's deep blue water surrounded by the Valley of the Ten Peaks created breathtaking panoramic views. The rockpile trail provided elevated viewpoints, while the relative lack of tourists allowed for peaceful contemplation of this natural masterpiece.

Banff Townsite Exploration: The charming mountain town offered excellent restaurants, outdoor gear shops, and local culture while maintaining strict development controls that preserved the natural setting. The town's pedestrian-friendly streets and mountain backdrop created perfect evening strolls after days of hiking.

Johnston Canyon: This popular waterfall hike through a limestone canyon featured well-maintained walkways, multiple waterfalls, and diverse ecosystems within a relatively short distance. The Lower and Upper Falls provided different experiences, while the lack of crowds allowed us to enjoy the natural acoustics of flowing water.

Sulphur Mountain Gondola: While we typically prefer hiking to mechanical transport, the gondola provided panoramic views over Banff townsite and surrounding peaks impossible to achieve on foot. The mountaintop boardwalk offered 360-degree mountain vistas and interpretive displays explaining the region's geology and ecology.

Day 5: Icefields Parkway - The Ultimate Mountain Drive

The journey from Banff to Jasper on Highway 93 North provided one of our most memorable travel experiences.

Athabasca Glacier: The Columbia Icefield's most accessible glacier allowed us to walk on ancient ice and understand glacial processes firsthand. The interpretive center explained how climate change is rapidly shrinking these massive ice formations, adding environmental urgency to the natural beauty.

Waterfalls Galore: Athabasca Falls, with its powerful flow through narrow limestone gorges, demonstrated water's geological power. Multiple roadside waterfalls throughout the drive created constant photo opportunities and short hiking diversions.

Peyto Lake Viewpoint: This elevated viewpoint revealed one of the Canadian Rockies' most distinctive scenes - the wolf-head-shaped lake surrounded by peaks and glaciers. The unique turquoise color, created by glacial sediment, made this lake particularly photogenic.

Wildlife Sightings: The reduced traffic during post-COVID reopening meant more wildlife visible from the road. Mountain goats on cliffsides, bighorn sheep near the roadway, and various bird species created constant excitement during the drive.

Columbia Icefield Skywalk: This glass-floored observation platform extending over the Sunwapta Valley provided thrilling views while educating visitors about the area's geological formation and glacial history.

Days 6-9: Jasper National Park

Canada's largest Rocky Mountain park offered even more wilderness experiences than Banff, though wildfire smoke affected our later days.

Hotel: Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge - This collection of rustic luxury cabins around Lac Beauvert created intimate mountain retreat atmosphere. The property's integration with the natural setting, excellent dining, and peaceful lake location provided perfect relaxation after active hiking days.

Maligne Lake: Canada's largest natural mountain lake required a scenic drive through the Maligne Valley but rewarded us with pristine wilderness and boat tours to Spirit Island, one of the most photographed locations in the Canadian Rockies. The lake's remote setting and surrounding peaks created profound wilderness experiences.

Maligne Canyon: This deep limestone gorge with multiple bridges and viewpoints provided dramatic geological education alongside spectacular scenery. The different vantage points revealed how water carved through solid rock over millennia, creating narrow passages and deep pools.

Mount Edith Cavell: Named after a WWI nurse, this peak and its surrounding area offered some of our most challenging and rewarding hiking. The Path of the Glacier trail provided close access to the Angel Glacier and demonstrated dramatic glacial retreat. The alpine environment and wildflower meadows created stunning high-altitude ecosystems.

Pyramid Lake: A short drive from Jasper townsite led to this peaceful lake perfect for canoeing, photography, and reflection. The pyramid-shaped mountain reflected in calm water created classic Canadian Rocky Mountain scenery.

Wildlife Encounters: Despite the smoke, we experienced incredible wildlife sightings around Jasper. Elk wandering through the townsite, black bears visible from safe distances, and mountain goats on cliffsides reminded us we were visiting their habitat rather than a theme park.

Wildfire Smoke Impact: During our final days, smoke from British Columbia wildfires created hazy conditions that obscured distant mountain views and affected air quality. While disappointing for photography, this environmental reality added urgency to appreciating pristine wilderness while it remains intact.

Hiking Highlights

Variety for All Levels: Both parks offered incredible hiking diversity - from accessible lakeside walks to challenging alpine adventures. The trail maintenance, signage, and facilities demonstrated Canadian park service excellence.

Lake Agnes Tea House: This historic mountain hut, accessible only by hiking from Lake Louise, provided traditional afternoon tea at 7,000 feet elevation. The combination of physical achievement and cultural experience created memorable mountain dining.

Plain of Six Glaciers: Another Lake Louise area hike leading to a tea house, this trail provided close glacier views and demonstrated how these ice formations have retreated dramatically in recent decades.

Valley of the Five Lakes: Near Jasper, this moderate hike revealed multiple lakes, each with different mineral content creating distinct colors from emerald to turquoise to deep blue.

Iceline Trail: The most challenging hike we attempted, this Mount Edith Cavell area trail provided close glacier access and alpine wildflower meadows. The physical effort required made the pristine wilderness experience more meaningful.

Wildlife and Natural Experiences

Animal Encounters: Reduced tourist numbers meant more natural wildlife behavior. Elk grazing peacefully, mountain goats traversing impossible cliff faces, and bighorn sheep demonstrating their climbing abilities created authentic wilderness connections.

Geological Education: The parks' interpretive programs helped us understand how glaciers, water, and geological forces created these dramatic landscapes over millions of years. This scientific context enhanced our appreciation of the natural beauty.

Climate Change Reality: Seeing glacial retreat markers and experiencing wildfire smoke provided sobering reminders that even protected wilderness faces environmental challenges requiring global attention.

What We'd Do Differently

More Jasper Time: Jasper's larger size and more remote wilderness deserved additional exploration days. The park's backcountry opportunities and wildlife viewing potential justified longer stays.

Wildfire Season Awareness: Future visits would consider wildfire seasons and air quality forecasts, though these environmental factors are increasingly unpredictable.

Extended Photography Planning: The incredible scenery deserved more dedicated photography time, particularly for sunrise and sunset lighting conditions.

Final Thoughts

Visiting the Canadian Rockies during post-COVID reopening provided a once-in-a-lifetime experience of these world-famous parks in near-solitude. The combination of spectacular mountain scenery, excellent hiking, luxury accommodations, and minimal crowds created ideal conditions for connecting with pristine wilderness.

The Icefields Parkway drive alone justified the entire trip, while both Banff and Jasper offered hiking and wildlife experiences rivaling any mountain destination worldwide. The Fairmont hotels provided perfect luxury bases that enhanced rather than detracted from the wilderness experience.

Most importantly, experiencing these protected landscapes reminded us why national parks matter for preserving natural heritage. The contrast between pristine mountain wilderness and environmental challenges like wildfire smoke reinforced the importance of protecting these areas for future generations.

For travelers seeking mountain wilderness, hiking adventures, luxury accommodations, and authentic wildlife encounters, the Canadian Rockies offer unmatched experiences. The combination of accessibility and pristine wilderness makes this region perfect for both active adventurers and those seeking peaceful mountain retreat.

Best Hiking: Lake Agnes Tea House trail combining physical challenge with historic mountain hospitality
Most Spectacular Drive: Icefields Parkway - one of the world's greatest mountain roads
Wildlife Highlight: Mountain goats navigating impossible cliff faces with apparent ease
Most Photogenic: Moraine Lake's turquoise water surrounded by the Valley of the Ten Peaks
Perfect For: Mountain enthusiasts, hikers of all levels, wildlife watchers, photographers, travelers seeking luxury accommodations in pristine wilderness settings.